Totnes History & Heritage

A walk around the town

Click on a number for more information.

1 Town Mill

We begin at the Town Mill, which houses the Information Centre. There is a restored Victorian water wheel and mill machinery, a display on mill technology in Totnes, and a small interpretative exhibition showing the development of the town. Upstairs, the Image Bank and Rural Archive is an ever-growing collection of photographs covering all aspects of local life from the mid 19th century onwards. Copies of all pictures are available for sale. The Totnes Ghost Walk begins outside the Mill every Tuesday at 8pm from Easter to Halloween.

2 The Plains

The wide area known as The Plains was, like everywhere flat around Totnes, tidal marsh. Many of the buildings were once warehouses. An obelisk commemorates William Wills, explorer of Australia, who was born here in 1834. The two granite pillars were the gateway to Town Marsh, which stretched away to the south towards St Peters Quay; they stood between the converted chapel and the Dartmouth Inn. The date 1687 and the town coat of arms can still be made out. The Royal Seven Stars Hotel dates from the 17th century, with later additions, but there may have been a hostelry here in the Middle Ages.

3 The Bridge

The graceful bridge designed by the Devon architect Charles Fowler was finished in 1828, replacing an earlier one, the foundations of which can be seen at low tide. It leads to the attractive suburb of Bridgetown, riverside walks, Steamer Quay for trips to Dartmouth and the tree-shaded Vire Island, named after the town in Normandy with which Totnes is twinned.

4 Fore Street

Entering Fore Street, take your time as you walk up the hill and remember to look above the modern shops for a rich selection of architectural styles. Many of the houses were built for the town’s wealthy merchants in the 16th and 17th centuries, with the slate-hung frontages added later.

5 The Gothic House and Mansion

Don’t miss the 18th-century Gothic house in Bank Lane, or the imposing Mansion of 1795, once the grammar school and now used for community education. The Mansion is a double-fronted Georgian building further up Fore Street.

6 Brutus Stone

The Brutus Stone, set into the pavement opposite Atherton Lane, features in legend as the place where Brutus the Trojan, founder of the British people, first stepped ashore. He is reputed to have proclaimed 'Here I stand and here I rest and this place shall be called Totnes'.

7 Totnes Elizabethan House Museum

At number 70 is Totnes Elizabethan House Museum, one of the finest restored Tudor town houses in the country. Built in about 1575 for Walter Kellond, a cloth merchant, it has rooms on three floors, a kitchen block linked to the main house by a gallery, a courtyard and a herb garden. The museum contains a wide range of exhibits illustrating local social history, industries, archaeology, clocks, costumes and toys, as well as a room devoted to Charles Babbage and his inventions. A Study Centre for local and family history deals with requests from all over the world, and Totnes Museum Society organises regular talks and events.

8 East Gate Arch

Passing beneath the East Gate Arch, rebuilt after the famous fire of 1990, you are in High Street.

9 Ramparts Wall

Climb the steps to Ramparts Walk and the Guildhall, in a peaceful haven behind St Mary’s Church.

10 Totnes Guildhall

There aren’t many towns where a visit to the council headquarters is a major experience, but Totnes Guildhall is unforgettable. Built in 1553 on the ruins of the medieval priory, founded in 1088, it has been the heart of the town’s administrative, legal and ceremonial life for centuries, serving as court, prison and meeting place. Still in regular use, it has an atmosphere that is almost tangible.

11 The Parish Church of St Mary

The Parish Church of St Mary is mainly late 15th century. Built of deep-red Devon sandstone, it is particularly noted for its tower and stone roodscreen.

12 The House of Nicholas Ball

Back in the street, notice the house of Nicholas Ball (Barclays Bank), a rich merchant whose widow married Thomas Bodley in 1586; Bodley used her wealth to found his great library at Oxford.

13 Butterwalk

On the right, the covered area of pavement is known as the Butterwalk. The houses were built this way to protect the market traders from the Devon weather (further up, on the other side, is the Poultrywalk).

14 Bogan House

At 16th-century Bogan House is the Devonshire Collection of Period Costume, another high-quality museum. Exhibitions on specific themes change every year.

15 Civic Hall

Opposite, by the Civic Hall, enjoy the Friday and Saturday Pannier Markets, and the Elizabethan Charity and Craft Market on summer Tuesday mornings.

16 Totnes Castle

A right turn into Castle Street takes you to Totnes Castle (English Heritage). Built by Judhel, the Norman overlord of Totnes, the castle has dominated the town for centuries. From the top you can enjoy magnificent views in every direction, and appreciate the castle’s superb defensive position.

17 The Narrows

Continuing along High Street you come to The Narrows, a colourful area of unusual shops, and the Rotherfold Square, which was once the cattle market.

18 Leechwell

Leechwell Street leads to Leechwell Lane, an attractive narrow pathway where you can find the Leechwell, dating from the Middle Ages and reputed to have healing properties. From here you can quickly find your way back to the town centre for refreshment in one of the many cafes or bars.

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